August 03, 2007
At the table of Yashima, a country restaurant located in the heart of Japan, beautiful food in earthenware cups was brought to the guests: purple sea urchins, milky flesh, vibrant red tuna. By the window, we could see the silhouette of Mount Fuji draped by fog in the distance. “Kyouju No Wain de Tsuketa Tomato” (Tomato marinated in the wine of the professor), was served by a young woman. This appears like fruit with silky skin. The “professor”, looks happy and proud of this honorable menu. The professor is Denis Dubourdieu, Bordelaise, son and grandson of wine grower, born fifty-eight years ago on the soil of Barsac, appellation Sauternes. How come the man of the Garonne is honored on the slopes of Mount Fuji?
Wine, of course. Because Dubourdieu is one of the most famous winemakers in the world. This internationalization has created oenologists, consultants who, advise the owners of all over the world to extract the best from their grapes, the duration of fermentation, the choice of barrels. The top three winemakers are French. Accurately, Bordelaises. At the sides of Denis Dubourdieu, one finds Michel Rolland “popularized” by Mondovino and Jean-Pierre Berrouët, vinificator of Chateau Petrus. But among the great winemakers, Dubourdieu is placed in a special position. Not because he invented new methods but because he applied theory to winemaking.
However, the road was long to reach Mount Fuji from Barsac and Denis Dubourdieu, who at 20 years of age, did not dream to be an oenologist. He liked sciences – eco-sciences (he obtained a master’s degree), biology (he studied agriculture) as well as challenges.
He did his thesis in biology on the macromolecular composition of sweet wines and introduced, for the first time, challenges in the study of wine. While continuing his fundamental research, he became the head of Chateau Reynon in Premières côtes de Bordeaux soon after his marriage. It was a delicate heritage. Wine production was in a crisis and the wine of his parents-in-law was not selling well. At 27 years, he had to save the chateau while continuing his thesis. Is it possible to do both? Can he improve the wine and revive Chateau Reynon? The religious idea of “genius of terroir” was dominant at that time. The idea was to intervene little and pray to god to produce high-class wines spontaneously.
It was a belief against science, so Dubourdieu moved quickly into action. He continued his research and at the same time, he improved the quality of the production and revived the Chateau. In 1983, he established his own laboratory in the faculty of oenology. About ten students work on the precursors of flavors, the characteristics of yeast, and tasting. Then he bought two hectares of Clos Floridène at Graves for practical research. Then one of the most interesting, delicate and fruity white wine of Graves was born out of nothing.
Following the young professor’s success, many owners of wineries asked him to consult for their wines. For example, Carbonieux, Latour-Martignac and Fieuzal.The list of wineries, which he consults, is extraordinary. It includes Yquem and Rayne Vigneau in Sauternes; Haut-Bailly and Carbonieux in Pessac-Léognan; Cheval Blanc in Saint-Emilion; Arsac in Margaux... also in Tain L’hermitage and other vineyards in Portugal or Spain. Nearly a hundred prestigious crus are on the list. These crus have one thing in common. Vines are planted at their northern limit. So grapes mature very slowly and develop the most complex flavors. Philosophy? “To have subtle juice which gains complexity while it’s aging, like human beings. I want to create unique wines ”. The professor objects to the success of compatriots who make “copies of Bordeaux wine in Chile and in Argentina”.
Out of the question to plant merlot in the New World, but why not imagine a unique, new vineyard? A big challenge for oenologists. India? Too late, already done. China? Already seen. So Japan? “Ah! Japan. Civilized country, respectful people...”, Denis Dubourdieu expressed a passion for the land of the Rising Sun where one can feel his title of professor, has a supernatural aura.
The vineyard is located in the district of Mount Fuji, where Denis Dubourdieu has continued his “uncertain work” for four years. The Koshu grape was imported from Europe a long, long time ago and one can find it only in Japan now. It is very original but also it is a mad idea to make a wine from this grape. It was grown for table grapes. The skin is bitter for wine. Certain local producers had already tried but it was not successful. But like ancient alchemists, he wanted to try. To create a new Koshu between alchemy and philosophy.
First perception: very light. Unsweetened grapes produce a low level of alcohol? All the same time, it is good. With less than 10 degrees of alcohol, the wine offers subtle aroma. Second perception: respecting Japanese esthetics. Not overpowering, nor concentrated, nothing like the wine of Bordeaux. But it offers the purity of wine. Result? “Very floral, notes of grapefruit, white spices and minerals at the finish.” Shinya Tasaki, the top sommelier of the world was amazed at the result. The expert is right to be amazed. He proved it. “More philosophical than oenological”, Dubourdieu created a wine in balance. The balance between beauty, good and righteousness. A wine, which has the soul of haiku. The wine of a poet.